Our day in Falmouth, Cornwall in southwest England was supposed to involve a long bus ride to the western most point of England (“Land’s End) and the town of St. Ives – which I knew nothing about other than it’s a brand of relatively inexpensive lotions and soaps. And I still don’t know anything about St. Ives because we never made it there. Because this:
Visibility was reportedly less than 50 meters (about 160 feet) |
Due to immigration requirements, we were up, dressed, and
standing in a long line heading towards the Bayou Café & Steakhouse on Deck 7 by 7:00
this morning. We are still yawning. Three hours later, we had cleared customs, our
tour had been canceled, the fog was only sort of starting to lift, and I was
hungry.
Suddenly free for the day, we decided to plod through the
fog into the seaport of Falmouth to see if we could satisfy my dad’s one
request when we told him our cruise itinerary.
Which is to say, we went in search of an authentic Cornish Pasty.
To those unaware, a Cornish Pasty is a delightful edible. It
is sort of an empanada, which means it is meat and veggies stuffed inside a
pastry crust which is folded and crimped like a pie. Legend says that the
hearty snack was invented and loved by the tin miners in Cornwall since it was
filling and tasty while also being easy to eat without utensils or even the
need to necessarily scrub tinny hands clean.
When I was in grade school, my family spent a couple of
years living in Butte, Montana – known mostly as Evel Knievel’s hometown but
also for its rather sizable copper mine. Since Butte was a mining town, it
attracted miners who brought their traditions with them. Although my dad was
not a miner (instead, he designed computer programs for the mine’s operations),
he quickly discovered and fell in love with the pasties available in the older
part of town. Hence his request we search for the original version of a lunchtime favorite.
Thanks to some quick Googling and an impressively walkable
port area, Rob and I descended upon The Cornish Bakery at 7 Arwenack Street and
had BY FAR the very best food of our trip. OH MY GOSH!
Imagine the best beef stew you have ever had, stuffed inside
a thick croissant. That is what I had for lunch today. It was insanely delicious. The meat was flavored with all sorts of spices and especially black
pepper. It was accompanied by onions, potatoes, and
carrots. And that was it. It was super simple and incredible and probably easy
to make and definitely impossible to replicate. I may never have another pasty again since
I can’t imagine I will ever find one to match the perfection of the one I had just hours ago.
Grateful for a good knee day that allowed us to climb some steep stairs to allow this lovely lunchtime view |
I quickly determined this is NOT how you should eat a pasty. I should have been holding it vertically, in a wrapper. Since I had been given a plate and utensils, I quickly began using them. |
The inside |
This was not posed. I shall forever remember Falmouth, Cornwall, England as home of the Gold Standard for all pasties |
Still in a happy food coma, we wandered down the street a bit and into a Cornish Cream ice cream store. We finished up The Best Meal All Year with a scoop of Cornish Cream Fudge ice cream made with clotted cream. It was rich, caramelly, just sweet enough without making my teeth hurt, and the inside of my mouth felt like velvet when we were done. It was so delectable, I didn’t slow down to take any photos.
I managed to take one photo while our scoop was being placed in a tub (really a cup but I like their word better -- it sounds more indulgent) |
If I lived in Falmouth, I would double in size in a matter of weeks. Instead, I will take my memories and calories with me as we sail to our final port before offboarding and embarking on Bucket List Item #3 of our trip. In the meantime, THANK YOU FOG!!
The Cornish Bakery lurks near the corner |
2 comments:
Pasties are also popular in the Copper Country of northern Michigan, where I grew up, for the same reason. They're wonderful!
They are! I love finding out about other areas where this tradition was brought along by new residents. :-)
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