Let Down in Lisbon

As you might have surmised from the title, I wasn’t as enthralled by Lisbon as I had hoped. Boo! I’m very happy to have visited the large waterfront city, but I’m grateful it does not represent my full exposure to Portugal. Because if it did, I wouldn’t be tempted to return to what is truly a beautiful, lovely country with friendly people and delicious adult beverages.

The buildings are pretty. And the weather was...
sticky. I'm so not made for humidity.

I had heard people compare Lisbon to San Francisco. And indeed there are similarities. They are both very hilly cities. They are both on large bodies of water that touch an ocean. They both have large red bridges that look eerily similar. They both feature old-timey cable cars. They both are overrun by tourists.

Old Timey Trolley Cable Car in Lisbon

I promise that's not the Golden Gate Bridge!
It's the 25th of April Bridge, named in honor
of the 1974 revolution that freed Portugal from
a dictatorship. It was built in 1966 (the Golden
Gate Bridge was built in 1937).

The old section of Lisbon is the 
hilliest. For a video clip of the 
steep, narrow streets, click here.

I lived near San Francisco for nearly 30 years. And I worked in The City’s downtown for over 10 years. So I am biased. But Lisbon just doesn’t sparkle like San Francisco. It doesn’t feel as livable. And oh goodness, the sidewalks! Lisbon sidewalks are slippery tiles and cobblestones, none flat or even, with ruts and divots that just scream “PHYSICAL THERAPY.” I’m grateful we didn’t try to roll any suitcases around town.

This section is in pretty good shape!
No ankle-twisting crevices.
I can not imagine how scary
this is in the rain.

Walking around Lisbon felt more like a trudge and less like a meander of discovery. Its energy felt muted and perfunctory, not lively and vibrant like Barcelona or Porto. I couldn’t get a good read on Lisbon’s personality. It just felt like a large, historic city plodding along until it’s time to break for coffee.

Meh.

My less than enthusiastic impression of Lisbon wasn’t helped by the fact that our first bus tour featured a driver that either hated his job or hated tourists. Or both. He surged and swayed the little bus all over the old, intensely hilly parts of Lisbon, causing my back and my stomach to rebel a bit. I’m ashamed that I couldn’t bring myself to even politely say “Thank you” as I escaped his 4-wheeled torture buggy.

After regrouping in a McDonald's – and being thoroughly entertained by the little delivery trolleys – Rob and I got on a bigger bus and enjoyed a much less jarring tour of Lisbon’s museum district and waterfront. I loved all the beautiful purple jacaranda trees fully in bloom!

Sadly taken after she delivered our 
lackluster fries and weird carbonated
pineapple beverage. But the air conditioning
ROCKED!

I fell in love with jacaranda trees
when I first noticed them in Australia.
If we time it right, we also see them 
in Southern California.

Even so, after 6 hours and nearly as many miles walking over imminently dangerous sidewalks, I was relieved to return to our hotel’s gardeny oasis bar and toast to a city explored. And a trip well-traveled.

Honestly, my favorite spot in Lisbon.
The hotel's courtyard was such a 
lovely respite!

So now we are on our way home. I’m actually typing this while on the last – and longest – leg of our 24ish hour trek back to Woodhaven. I’m tired but also grateful my body held up to all I asked of it over the past 16 days.

I’m also grateful for the education along the way.

I learned I like Spanish Tempranillos much better than American versions.

I learned I love 20-year-old tawny ports and even older vintage ports.

I learned Portuguese wines are salty.

I learned a dry white wine mixed with tonic water and some mint is a lively, hip oh-so-European way to toast a warm day.

I learned I do not like Spanish or Portuguese food. So much fish. Except for tapas. Tapas are fun!

I learned that avocado is a great addition to a breakfast buffet. Ditto sliced ham.

I learned that as much as I like food and exploring new cuisines, I’m not fancy enough for “gastronomic experiences,” and Michelin Stars are wasted on my tastebuds.

I learned that I can still enjoy traveling even when I can’t sleep and am riddled with anxiety. In related news, I also learned magnesium supplements are not for me.

I learned I can travel pretty lightly – and merino wool is amazing – but a limited wardrobe gets boring real fast. Even with a jeans jacket and jaunty scarf.

I learned that while I really enjoyed and benefited greatly from having private tours (organized by our travel agent), having a personal tour guide was a lot of socializing and not a lot of time for recharging. This introvert is pooped!

I learned (or confirmed) that as much as I love to get out and see the world, I live exactly where I am supposed to be. I missed the peace, groundedness, and refreshing dampness of Woodhaven. I am happy to be heading home, even if it is for what can be best be counted in hours.

Yes, Hither is coming to a close. And Yon is right on its heels.

We will be back at Woodhaven for less than 72 hours before we head back to PDX for the next adventure in Escaping Tim (which is progressing along quite well from all reports). I personally think we are nuts, but it sounded like a grand idea a few months ago.

Stay tuned!

Cheers from Lisbon!
And to the next travel adventure!